Australia





6 Apr: Ayers Rock and The Olgas

We were up early this morning (5:45 am) and entered the park as it was opening, a half an hour before sunrise. We drove to the viewing area which is much smaller than the sunset viewing area; tourists must like their beauty sleep! As the sun rose the rock was illuminated from a dark red to its daytime orange glow. We then went to the start of the rock climb walk to see if it would open today. Yesterday morning it was open, but closed at 10:30 am due to strong winds. It's only open about 100 days per year as it's often closed due to wind, bad weather or for Aboriginal cultural reasons. A lot is done to try to deter people from climbing the rock, as it's against Aboriginal beliefs and it must be said that it's a challenging climb, definitely not suitable for the faint hearted! We respect other peoples' cultures, religions and beliefs, but if we get the chance to climb the mythical rock, we will! Unfortunately today, the climb stayed closed all day...

After a quick look at the cultural centre, we decided to drive about 50 kms towards the Olgas, to do a 7.4 km walk around the rocks, also named Kata Tjuta. The Valley of the Winds walk merits its name. The wind blew strongly in the valley and we were glad to have our fleeces with us. The scenery is stunning and surprisingly different from it's neighbour Uluru. The rock is made of granite and basalt pebbles and many have been literally cut in half by ancient rock movements.

The three girls spent the afternoon at the campground, between the cabin, the pool and the playground and François returned to do the 10 km base walk around Uluru. Gaelle and Sophie were too tired to walk any further today...

In the evening we enjoyed a super BBQ with T-bone steaks, updated all our Internet pages and went to bed with our fingers crossed that the climb would open tomorrow morning.

Sunrise at Uluru Scrambling up the Valley of the Winds at the Olgas The Valley of the Winds walk
The Olgas (Kata Tjuta) The closed climb The gorge on the Mala walk

7 Apr: Ayers Rock to Sydney

The alarm woke us at 6:30. We had two plans for this morning. Plan a, if we were lucky, was to climb the rock. Plan b, was that François and the girls would do the small Mala ranger guided walk whilst Jenny ran the base walk. We arrived at Uluru just before 8am and were somewhat surprised but delighted to see the climb open! Off we set on the 348 metre climb up the rock! A low chain railing was installed in 1975 to add a bit of safety , but apart from the back-breaking low chain you basically scramble up the steep rock face; there are no steps or ladders! Before reaching the summit the walk flattens out, the railing disappears and white lines painted on the rock indicate the path to the top. The wind up there was strong and blew right through our fleeces; we were certain that the climb would be closed by the time we got back down...

It took us 50 minutes to reach the summit and we were rewarded with stunning views of the surrounding plains, The Olgas and Ayers Rock. We were all so pleased to have been able to climb the majestic rock, one of the symbols of Australia and a rock rich in Aboriginal beliefs. If only it could talk and relate the wonders it has witnessed since it's creation... Sophie cried in the car on the way back to the campground. She was extremely sad to leave the rock behind!

We flew out of Uluru at 1:30 pm to Sydney and reset out watches - there's a novel half hour time difference! We arrived at the YMA (youth hostel) in Bondi Beach where we'd reserved a room for four with a bathroom, backpacker luxury! No sooner had we set down our luggage, we learnt of a YMA Tuesday night free meal special at Shacks bar/café in Bondi Beach. With vouchers in hand we tagged along with the backpacker crowd to check out the plan! We were pleasantly surprised to find ourselves in a nice bar near the beach with a choice of meals. With a beer and some lemonade to wash everything down, it was a perfect evening!

At the summit of Ayers Rock On top of Ayers Rock!

8 Apr: Sydney

Jenny set off for an early morning run (6:30) along Bondi Beach, already crowded with fitness fanatics and surfers. After breakfast we walked down to the beach to catch an open topped double decker sightseeing bus around Bondi and Sydney city centre. We hopped off the bus at The Rocks for a look around. We saw the oldest house in Sydney, a cottage, a stone throw away from the waters of Circular Quay. We also visited The Rocks museum which explains the European colonisation of the area, the convict history and the decline of the local Aboriginal community. For lunch we ate sandwiches on the waterfront with a fantastic view over Sydney Opera House and the Harbour Bridge and watched an Aboriginal street artist playing his didgeridoo. He combined the didgeridoo with contemporary music and the result was great. We even bought a CD!

Next we went off in search of a didgeridoo as a present for friends in Nouméa. Fingers crossed they haven't already got one! We visited a number of Aboriginal art shops before finding an authentic one hollowed out by termites that played well. Then a look at Argile C ut, a tunnel carved out by convicts and the first church built in Australia, before hopping back on the bus to continue the commented sightseeing tour around the city.

It was dark when we arrived back at the youth hostel. Another special night was on; takeaway pizzas for $8. We ordered two and got the kids homework out of the way before dinner.

Sydney Harbour Bridge A Street entertainer playing the didgeridoo


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