Jordan



4 Jan - Kerak and Hammamat Afra

We left our hotel in Madaba, planning to visit the castle of Kerak, bathe in the hot water springs of Hammamat Afra and reach Petra by the evening. We arrived at our first destination at 11:30, after a 2 hour drive along the famous King's Road. The scenery was breathtaking, beautiful sunshine and not a cloud in the sky. Kerak castle is impressive: it was built by the crusaders in 1242, is huge and has a vast network of underground galleries and rooms which enabled the occupants to stay cool during the hot summer months. It was amusing to explore all the passages and the children loved exploring all the dark corners with their torch headlights !

We made it to the hot water springs around 15:15. They're situated in the middle of nowhere, at the end of a long windy road, but the thought of bathing in hot waters in a spectacular desert gorge spurred us on ! But we were pretty disappointed when we got there, after such high expectations... It was ugly, dirty, no changing rooms despite the new buildings put up during last year's renovation works and a lot of concrete laid with no respect for the beautiful natural surroundings. The icing on the cake was the men and women's bathing pools were separated !  Three or four pools were reserved for men which were cleanish (if you're not too fussy)... but the tiny single, walled-in pool reserved for women was filled with a gray, opaque water. Despite being less than a metre deep, the bottom and even walls of the pool couldn't be seen ! There was no way Jenny and the girls were going to take a swim in there ! After complaining, we were redirected to a small private pool where we were given permission to bathe as a family, which had transparent waters and was at 39 degrees. Not very e nticing even so, but as we had come all that way and paid the entrance fee, we felt obliged to bathe !

The remaining part of the drive to Petra was tiring: the King's road is windy, crosses many small towns packed with lorries and sleeping policemen... and to top it all, we encountered roadworks with a 60 km detour...!

The hotel reserved by telephone was VERY basic: the room is very chilly despite the "heating", the shower has two positions, cold or scalding hot, not to mention the awful decoration and carpets. On the bright side of things, we are at Petra, we have 4 beds for the night and it's quiet...

The King's Road Inside Kerak castle The hot water springs of Hammamat Afra


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