Peru





31 May: Aguas Calientes to Cuzco

We tried to exchange our PeruRail train tickets for an earlier train, but were told it had to be done 24 hours in advance; strange because in Ollantaytambo they told us that tickets could be exchanged up to 40 minutes prior to departure... We therefore killed in time by walking the 2 kms to the Machu Picchu museum for a look around. The museum is in a big new building, but the exhibits and explanations are a bit disappointing considering the splendour of the actual site. We also walked around the small botanic garden next to the museum, but the flowers were few and far between and it wasn't very inspiring.

We don't know whether there exist any honest restaurants in Aguas Calientes, but we didn't find one! A made-up tax of 20% was added to our lunch bill... In addition when we collected our laundry from a hotel, 2kgs of somebody else's washing was added to our bag... We really weren't impressed with the service in this town whose sole "reason d'être" is tourism. At 14:30 we caught the Backpacker train back to Ollantaytambo, followed by a taxi to Cuzco. We arrived at our hotel in Cuzco at 18:00 just in time to head out to a Peruvian dance show at the Qosqo Native Art Centre. Live music played on traditional instruments accompanied the folk dancers in beautiful colourful costumes. The girls in particular really enjoyed the show.

The sacred valley and Urubamba river The street outside our hotel in Aguas Calientes - the railway line! The distinctive blue Perurail carriages

1 June: Cuzco to Los Angeles

We had all morning to have a deeper look around the city of Cuszo. We started off by climbing up the imposing PachuCuteq monument, crowned by a 11.5m bronze statue of the famous Inca ruler. Next we visited the Qorikancha museum to try to learn a bit about the original Inca sun temple that occupied the Qorikancha site now taken over by the Spaniard built Saint Domingo convent. Afterwards we visited the convent where there are still surprisingly many remains of the Inca buildings. The Spanish didn't destroy all of the impressive Inca sun temple, they removed all the gold and built splendid colonial structures around certain existing elements, leaving some fine Inca stone masonry. The mix of architectural styles is surprising.

After lunch we visited the Inca Museum, where we saw many Inca and pre-Inca artefacts found during archeological digs. The geographical extent, structured society and technical expertise of the Inca Empire was surprising considering that these people had no writing.

At 16:00 we took a flight to Lima, the first of three consecutive flights. Surprise, we had to pay 17 US$ in airport taxes! Then after a 7 hour wait in the capital, at 00.50 we took a night flight to Los Angeles. Second surprise, we had to pay another 124 US$ in airport taxes...! We were lucky as we all managed to have quite a decent night's sleep on the plane.

The PachuCuteq monument Saint Domingo convent View over the cathedral roofs


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