Thailand





31 Jan: Doi Suthep

The temple of Doi Suthep is up in the mountain, at the end of a windy road, north of Chiang Mai. The temple is accessible via 306 steps bordered by a naga balustrade (snake). One of the most striking elements of the temple complex is the golden chedi, but unfortunately its beauty was masked by scaffolding due to renovation work. Then a few kilometres further up the mountain to the royal family's winter residence, Bhubing Palace. There are a series of royal residences and guesthouses in beautifully designed gardens. The flowers are the same as our European gardens, with the exception of large poinsettia (resembling trees rather than plants) and giant bamboo.

The temple of Doi Suthep is up in the mountain, at the end of a windy road, north of Chiang Mai. The temple is accessible via 306 steps bordered by a naga balustrade (snake). One of the most striking elements of the temple complex is the golden chedi, but unfortunately it's beauty was masked by scaffolding due to renovation work. Then a few kilometres further up the mountain to the royal family's winter residence, Bhubing Palace. There are a series of royal residences and guesthouses in beautifully designed gardens. The flowers are the same as our European gardens, with the exception of large poinsettia (resembling trees rather than plants) and giant bamboo.

The taxi driver then tried to cancel the visit to the tribal village arguing that the access road was too bad for the car. It was a mere 2 kms down a tarmac road! We insisted on going, so he took us. There we saw children and women in tradition Hmong hill tribe costumes selling souvenirs. In fact the village is one big colourful market selling Thai silks, bags, clothes, costumes and hats. We were a bit disappointed to find cast iron roofed shacks rather than more traditional dwellings!

The taxi driver then invented an excuse to return urgently to Chiang Mai, so our trip to Lake Tao was abandoned... We told him we'd only pay him partially if he didn't complete the itinerary, but this didn't deter him. The girls were already tired so it wasn't a big loss to return to the guesthouse a bit earlier and spend the rest of the afternoon around the pool. Jenny took advantage of the freed up time to have her first Thai massage.

Doi Suthep Bhubing Palace gardens Tradition costumes for sale in Hmong village

1 Feb: Chiang Mai Zoo

Today we went to the zoo! Chiang Mai zoo is huge. There's a monorail and a bus service within the zoo, but we walked our way round in order to see all the animals. What's so amazing about this zoo is that you can feed and literally touch many of the animals, for example giraffes, hippos, ostriches, monkeys, emu, snakes and crocodiles. Something we could never experience in Europe. We saw 2 pandas and koalas and a seal show and a parrot show. We spent almost 7 hours in the zoo! It was great fun!

We then took a sort of open air taxi van to the centre of Chiang Mai to the Sunday Market. Two of the city's main streets are closed to traffic to make room for the market. It's huge and not only for tourists; Thai people come as far as Bangkok to buy stuff here. We ate Thai food from the market around the temples and enjoyed wandering from stall to stall. We also reserved an excursion for the next day.

A hippo being feed with carrots by the public - you could touch his tusks if you were stupid enough! Gaelle and the giraffes Meeting the parrots after the show
Panda in Chiang Mai zoo A chedi by night at Chiang Mai Sunday market Sunday market in Chiang Mai

2 Feb: Tribal excursion

We were picked up at 8:30 by a minibus for an excursion to visit 5 tribal villages plus the caves in Chiang Dao. The tribes are not as you would expect from Thailand but Myanmar and Nepal, and certain were refugees. The most impressive village was the Karen long neck tribal village where girls from the age of 5 put rings of bronze around their necks, increasing the length regularly until they have between 25 and 30 rings of bronze around their necks. What's mind-boggling is that they actually keep the rings around their necks all the time; they sleep and shower with them and they're even buried with them.

The Chiang Dao caves are limestone caves with over 16 kms of galleries. The illuminated gallery for day-trippers is only 350 metres long and is decorated sporadically with B uddhas. There are stalactites, but nothing particularly impressive compared to local caves in France. There are giant carp and cat fish in a river around the cave entrance which amused the kids.

Palong tribal head dress Carp around Chiang Dao caves Giraffe women (long neck Karen tribe)

3 Feb: River Maethang

Another excursion today with a fun packed programme: an elephant ride, a trek to a waterfall, white water rafting and bamboo rafting.

Unpleasant surprise when the guesthouse owner made it clear that he was not happy that we had reserved our excursions directly, rather than passing via the guesthouse... But when you're travelling for 6 months it's worth shopping around and when you can pay, depending on the excursion, between a half to two-thirds of the price, it's certainly justified.

We had a fun elephant ride with François on the elephant's neck and the 3 girls on the seat on its back. The elephant trainer walked in front and we learnt some Thai elephant commands to direct our elephant. It was fun! Next we did a short trek (3/4 of an hour there and back) through the forest to a waterfall where we could take a dip before driving to the Maethang river for some white water rafting. There were several rapids on the way down and the girls thoroughly enjoyed it. So did we! Something we could never do in France with the kids at their age. And to finish the day off we did  a bit of bamboo rafting, with François directing the raft before the journey home.

Elephant riding Waterfall on trek


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