French Polynesia





28 Apr: Huahine

We flew in 30 minutes to the island of Huahine. We had treated ourselves to a villa at Bougainville Villas, complete with a car and a motor boat for the two day stay on the island; A more expensive option than usual but definitely worth it. The 2 bedroom villa is nicely decorated and very well equipped (there's even a washing machine) and has a lovely big terrace. The car is brand new and the aluminium hull boat with a 15 hp engine is docked on a private jetty on the lagoon just 50 m from the house. Class!

After a quick food shop and lunch we headed out on the motor boat to explore the lagoon around the east side of Huahine Iti. We stopped alongside Motu Murimahora for some snorkelling. The coral and fish were lovely and with the water temperature at 30 degrees, we didn't get cold! Then a stop at a white sand beach at the tip of the motu for the girls to have a quick play in the shallows, before continuing our journey around the small island of Huahine (Huahine Iti) to another white sand beach on Motu Araara. We collected a couple of coconuts from the beach and then set off back in the direction of the villa. On the way we saw some several sting rays. Will we ever get lucky enough to see these beautiful creatures whilst we're snorkelling?

We enjoyed dinner on the terrace and then watched an interesting documentary on TV about Easter Island, our next destination after Polynesia.

The Huahine islands The villa and car The motor boat on the lagoon
Sophie snorkelling Gaelle snorkelling A box fish

29 Apr: Huahine

This morning we decided to tour the islands of Huahine by car. We started with the lookout point over Maroe Bay, where the villa's situated. Then we stopped at Faie to see the sacred blue eyed eels which live in a short stretch of river. They're well fed by the locals and hence are surprisingly big for fresh water eels. We fed them our left-over bread. On the way to the archeological remains of the coastal marae around Maeva, a lovely smell of vanilla caught our attention so we stopped at a vanilla grower's. We learnt how the vanilla is grown, picked and dried, tasted some vanilla rum and saw some vanilla plantations. The Maeva marae reside on the edge of the lagoon and are the most complete and most interesting remains that we've seen to date.

Next stop was the Huahine pearl farm. A small boat took us over to visit the pearl shop out on the lagoon next to the oyster beds. We learnt how pearls are farmed and had a good look at the brut pearls for sale. We then did a quick tour of Huahine Iti, stopping for a picnic on a white sandy beach and a look at some more marae remains.

We spent a lovely afternoon on the lagoon with the motor boat. We went under the bridge linking the two Huahine islands and headed up the west side of Huahine Nui to a coral garden and a spot called the natural aquarium. The snorkelling in both spots was great. It's surprising just how comfortable the girls now are in the water; both can dive down to pick up shells or look more closely at the coral and blow the water out of the snorkel when surfacing. On the way back we spotted a turtle and several sting rays from the boat. It's nice to see the islands from the lagoon as the views are very different to that obtained when driving around the roads.

The lookout over Maroe Bay and Huahine Iti Sophie showing a clam Angel fish

30 Apr: Huahine and flight to Raiatea

This morning it was raining... By 9:30 it was still grey and overcast, but the rain had stopped so we decided to take the boat out on the lagoon and return to the coral garden we snorkelled at the day before. Gaelle found a beautiful shell whilst snorkelling but unfortunately it still had the mollusc inside, but it appeared to be dead. We decided to put it into the ice-cream tub filled with water in the boat and observe it for a while. By the time we reached a white sand beach opposite the snorkelling spot on Huahine Iti, the shell had shown no sign of life. A guard followed us up to the beach on his kayak pirogue and when we showed him the shell he took control of the situation, got out his knife and started to empty the shell. Gaelle was delighted to be able to keep the shell but we were all a bit taken aback as we don't like killing any form of animal...

We returned to the villa before the rain started again to shower and have lunch. Then Raphael, our host, dropped us off at the airport for our flight to Raiatea. Fifteen minutes later and we landed at Raiatea to be warmly greeted by the owners of Sunset Beach Motel. The bungalow was very nice and roomy, right on the edge of the lagoon and on a lovely plot of land of about 1000m2. A particularly nice touch was the hibiscus flowers laid all over the bungalow, shells along the terrace balcony and fresh opened coconuts placed in the fridge with straws.

François and Sophie went for a swim in the lagoon to explore the corals before dinner and we arranged a dive for the next day.

The bungalow at Sunset Beach Motel Gaelle proudly showing her shell François enjoying a fresh coconut

1 May: Raiatea

Once the rain had subsided, we took one of the hotel's kayaks out onto the lagoon with the objective of reaching a nearby motu. It took 3/4 hour to row to the tiny coral fringed island. We then took to the water for a spot of snorkelling before beginning our journey back. The kayak started lying lower and lower on the water and becoming more and more unstable. It became obvious that it was fill of water so we rowed as quickly as we could to shore, fortunately making it without capsizing! We then proceeded to empty the kayak; it must have had at least 60-70 litres of water in it as we struggled to lift it. After some deliberation we decided to risk continuing our return journey by kayak, keeping as close to the shore as possible. We stopped a second time to empty it, before making it safe and sound back to the hotel's jetty, with aching arms. What an adventure!

In the afternoon we went out for a dive on the sheltered east side of the island at Teavo Piti with Hemisphere Sub. The girls came with us on the boat accompanied by a dive instructor who would take them snorkelling. The dive in the pass was fantastic! Eight black tipped reef sharks circled around us for the whole duration of the dive. It was our first encounter with sharks! We also saw seven huge Napoleons measuring up to 1.5 metres long, a leopard ray, a school of barracuda, an enormous tuna fish, a lionfish, a moray eel and hundreds and hundreds of tropical fish. The girls thoroughly enjoyed their snorkel around the nearby motu. Back at the dive centre situated in a hotel we swam in the pool and watched a fashion show before being driven back to our bungalow.

We got an Internet access at the hotel, but the connection was so unreliable and slow that we couldn't finish uploading our website. Sorry for the missing images...

On the dive boat

2 Apr: Tahaa and Flight to Bora Bora

We went on an excursion today of the vanilla island of Tahaa, just north of Raiatea. We started by crossing the lagoon between the two islands on a pirogue under a grey, cloudy sky and finished under the rain with raincoats on! Just our luck! Fortunately though the weather cleared up when we reached the pearl farm. We were given a very interesting and complete talk about the culture of pearls before hopping into a 4WD to do a tour of the island. We were quickly halted by road block caused by a fallen electricity pole, so we attacked the circuit the other way round. The track to the lookout point was really muddy and steep in places but it proved no challenge for a Land Rover. On the way, Edwin our guide showed us how to make a flute from a native tree and a plate from leaves. From the lookout point we had a beautiful view of Tahaa with both Raiatea and Bora Bora in the distance. Edwin cut us up some grapefruit and grated some coconut flesh to be eaten with bananas. It was all really tasty, especially the grapefruit which was green and unexpectedly sweet. Then a stop at a vanilla farm wher Edwin explained how vanilla flowers are pollinated by man and how the vanilla is dried.

Next a delicious 3 course meal prepared by Edwin's wife; raw fish salad, tuna sashumi, coconut bread, fried fish balls, baked tuna in vanilla sauce with rice, fresh fruit salad and coffee. After lunch we got back in the pirogue and headed for a nearby motu for a snorkel. We saw lots of interesting things including a coral eating starfish we'd seen in the aquarium at Noumea, a squid, a caterpillar like animal, box fish and several picasso.

Then return journey to Raiatea to catch our flight to Bora Bora. We arrived just after sunset at Bora Bora and the views of the old crater peaks and the lagoon were stunning. We took the airport boat shuttle to Vaitape and waited for the transfer to Chez Robert et Tina to pick us up. It didn't turn up, so we resorted to catching a taxi...

The room is plain and poky with a shared bathroom and kitchen... Quite a step down from the nice bungalow in Raiatea which was the same price... But then this is Bora Bora, so fingers crossed that tomorrow morning when we see the beauty of the famous Matira Point we'll feel better about staying here for four nights!

Eating bananas and grated coconut at the lookout The view from the lookout over Tahaa


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