French Polynesia





24-23 Apr: Flight to Papeete

Today is an unusual day! We were up at 6 am, quickly got dressed and loaded our luggage into the rental car. Fortunately Hélène and Pacome were up so we were able to say goodbye. Hélène offered us each a beautiful shell necklace, the traditional P olynesian departure gift. The girls were absolutely delighted, but sad to leave their new friends.

We boarded an Airbus A330 with a flight time of 5 hours 10 minutes to Papeete. We left Noumea on Friday 24th April and arrived in French Polynesia on Thursday 23rd April at 17:30!  We will live Friday 24th of April twice; Try explaining that to the girls!  If only François' brother, Philippe had been with us, he could have celebrated his birthday two times!

We were greeted at the airport by Christian, the father of a friend from Grenoble, Corinne. He welcomed us to Tahiti in style; we were each offered a beautiful necklace of fresh flowers. Then he drove us to our hotel for the night, the Manava. Undoubtedly the most luxurious hotel we'll stay in during our 6 month trip! It's a brand new 4 star hotel, with nicely decorated suites and a gorgeous swimming pool overflowing into the sea, with Moorea in the backdrop. We were able to offer ourselves this much appreciated luxury thanks to Christian kindly booking us a suite with a special resident price.

After quickly doing the girls' homework, we were invited to Christian and Jacqueline's apartment for dinner. They have a nice apartment with fantastic 360 degree views over the coast, Moorea and the mountains. We spent a lovely evening with Corinne's parents and were treated to a delicious dinner on  the terrace. A big thank you to both Christian and Jacqueline for their hospitality.

Bye bye to Hélène and family Air Calin flight to Papeete The beautiful flower necklaces offered to us by Christian and Jacqueline

24 Apr (again!): Papeete to Tahiti Iti

We had a lie in this morning followed by a lovely buffet breakfast. François collected a hire car from the airport, whilst I tried in vain to extend our room for an extra night... Unfortunately even the night of 9th May, the night before our flight to Easter Island, was fully booked...

We all went for a swim in the hotel's stunning swimming pool. When in the swimming pool, one has the impression that the water extends into the lagoon all the way across to Moorea. The setting is awesome! We regrettably had to check out at 11am, else we could have quite easily stayed put all day.

We headed to an Air Tahiti office at Carrefour to book our island flights; Pepeete -> Moorea -> Huahine -> Raiatea ->Bora Bora -> Rangiroa -> Papeete. Then we reserved a rental car and a bungalow for the 3 nights in Moorea. The difficult task was finding somewhere to sleep for the night! After many, many phone calls we eventually found a room in a B&B in Pueu, on the presqu'île of Tahiti.

Before leaving Papeete, we visited the interesting Pearl Museum which has an impressive collection of large pearls and exquisite jewellery. We then started our clockwise tour of Tahiti, stopping at a lookout and blowhole on the way to the B&B. What a disappointment when we saw the plain and poky room at the B&B with its shared bathroom at the other side of the garden... Quite a contrast from the previous night and frankly not good value at 90€ a night!

We wandered just down the road from the B&B to a black sand beach where François and the girls enjoyed playing in the waves, surrounded by children surfing the waves on body boards. We put the kids to bed early to enjoy a quiet dinner of sashimi and sushi on the terrace. We were lucky the sound of the waves crashing against the shore drowned out the noise of the girls being mischievous in the bedroom...!

On the edge of the swimming pool, overlooking the lagoon and Moorea The hotel's pool and bar

25 Avr: Tahiti-Iti to Moorea

We slept well in the B&B and enjoyed a pleasant breakfast in the garden on the water's edge. Our hosts kindly offered us a bowl of fruit, freshly picked from the garden to accompany our croissants and pain au chocolat, which distracted our eye from the colour of the garden chairs which must have been white in the distant past...

We set off to visit the presqu'île of Tahiti-Iti, starting with the north coast to Tautira, where we visited the first missionary church of the island which is made of stone. Then we drove inland and upwards to "Le Plateau", from where there is a beautiful view of the isthmus, east and west coasts of both the island and the peninsula. Next, we drove along the south coast of the peninsula to visit our first Marae: archeological remains of royal residences and/or places of cult for the ancient Ma'ohi . It's very difficult to get an idea of what the complex looked like in it's hay day as only ground-level stones remain... Unfortunately no artist representations of the site are on display to help. 

The girls were getting impatient by now to bathe in the enticing lagoons, so we stopped at a small roadside beach of white sand (rare in Tahiti as most of the beaches are black sand). The temperature of the water was really warm and a small snorkelling tour gave an idea of the wonders in store... but also the dangers: there was a strong current in the pass between corals, we cut our feet on the corals and François almost stood on a stone fish (a venomous fish that camouflages itself on the seabed)! We ate a picnic lunch on the beach whilst the girls made friends with a couple of Tahitian girls.

We continued our drive along the west coast of Tahiti Nui, stopping at a few curiosities indicated in our guide. The most interesting was certainly the Arahurahu Marae but unfortunately as we approached the ruins the heavens opened and it poured down with rain. We first took shelter under the leaves of a banana tree which didn't prove sufficient with the lashing rain, so we ran the 30 m between us and a solid shelter, arriving absolutely drenched! After a 30 minute wait for the tropical storm to subside, without avail, François bravely ran back to the car to come and rescue us. The roads looked more like rivers when we drove away, disappointed at not being able to visit the Marea and wet. At 17:00 we boarded a small plane for the 20 km flight to Moorea. Probably the shortest flight of our whole trip; less than 5 minutes in the air!

Upon arrival in Moorea we picked up a Ford Fiesta and drove to our vast bungalow Motel Albert in Cook's Bay. The bungalow's decoration hasn't been changed since the early 80's, but it's functional and spacious; 2 bedrooms (luxury!), a shower room, a large living area, a kitchen and a big terrace.

Tautira church Drenched and taking shelter from the tropical storm

26 Apr: The tour of the island of Moorea

Today we decided to tour the island. From our starting point in Cook's Bay we drove around the coast to the picturesque Opunohu Bay and then inland to Opunohu Valley, which many say looks like the countryside in Normandy. We first stopped to admire the view at the lookout point of the two bays and the majestic peaks in the centre of the island, the walls of the former crater. We then visited on foot the archeological remains of several marae, religious structures and archery platforms. We walked through the tropical vegetation full of Polynesian chestnut trees (Mape) from ruin to ruin. The highlight was finding in a stream two stones with faces carved on each side, not mentioned in the guide. The girls were excited and believed themselves to be real explorers like Indiana Jones!

Next stop to look at another well restored Marae with two platforms each with three levels of alternating coral and spherical stone walls. The setting on the sea front in a coconut grove is idyllic. We stopped to look at a couple of old churches on the way before arriving reaching the waterfall area. After a 25-30 minute walk through tropical vegetation we reached the first "waterfall" at Afareaitu. In fact it's an impressive wall of black volcanic rock, but you have to look really closely to see a mere trickle of water dripping into a small, shallow pool below. What a disappointment! François and the girls were determined to take a dip despite the deception. When they came out to dry off we spotted eels and prawns in the water. We headed for the next waterfall in the guide confident that it would look more like a real waterfall, but after a 30 minute walk we came to another trickle of water and an even smaller pool of water! Gaelle even spotted a dead rat in the water! We decided to rectify the situation by heading straight for the beach. We swam and did a bit of snorkelling, before watching the sun set over the sea.

We stopped at a local supermarket and bought a local speciality for dinner: fresh raw fish and coconut milk salad. It was delicious!

Cook's Bay from the lookout The carved stones in the river at Opunohu A marae at Opunohu
The swimming hole at Afareaitu waterfall Sunset at Cook's Bay

27 Apr: The beach at Moorea

Today was a beach day. We headed to a hotel at Pointe Hauru to try and hire a kayak in order to explore the lagoon and surrounding " motus" (tiny islands). The kayaks were small and we couldn't all squash onto one so we decided to spend the morning on the beach snorkelling in the lagoon. The water was a bit shallow and we felt a little uncomfortable swimming with the coral so close to the surface, but it was like being in an aquarium: the visability was excellent, the colours beautiful and there were lots of coral and tropical fish.

After a picnic on the beach we rented a pedalo for a couple of hours to try and spot some rays and sharks in the pass and navigate to the surrounding islands. We stopped off twice for a spot of snorkelling on our way, anchoring the pedalo. The waters were a bit deeper further out so snorkelling over the corals proved easier and more enjoyable. We were lucky to spot both a sting ray and a black tipped shark, but unfortunately not whilst we were in the water... We also remembered to bring our underwater case for our camera today, so we have some nice underwater photos as a souvenir.

We stayed at the beach until sunset and then drove back to the bungalow. Tomorrow morning we fly on to Huahine.

A Picasso fish Jenny and Gaelle on the pedalo François and Sophie snorkelling
A Moray Eel Jenny snorkelling Moorea: from below and above the water


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