Australia





21 Feb: Warrnambool to The Grampians

Everybody had a lie in this morning. François was feeling well enough to eat some breakfast and Gaelle's arm is slowly getting better (hurrah!).

First stop, the visitors centre, to get some ideas for today's outings and to upload our Internet pages (yes, I can hear you cheer!). Next stop, Safeways to stock up on provisions followed by a BBQ lunch on Cannon Hill. The free gas / electric BBQs at picnic sites all around Australia are really great. They help with fire prevention and are really handy for tourists like us.

In the afternoon we drove to Tower Hill Reserve for a couple of walks around the volcano. The volcano first erupted about 30'000 years ago and a large lake formed in its crater. Subsequent eruptions formed small islands creating islands and small hills. We walked around the crater, meeting a couple of emus on the way - how amazing to see these big birds in the wild only a couple of metres away. On the second walk we saw a Copperhead snake (arrgh - it's a venomous snake...) and 4 koalas. The birds in Australia are magnificent and very colourful; here we saw lorikeets and blue wrens.

We drove inland, direction the Grampians and stopped for the night in a National Park's campsite at Jimmy's Creek, accompanied by wallabies.

An emu in the wild at Tower Hill A lowland copperhead snake we met at Tower Hill A koala at Tower Hill

22 Feb: The Grampians

We visited the Brumbuk Cultural Centre in Halls Gap to get some information about the Grampians. We saw an interesting film there about the local Aboriginal culture and beliefs. We left with a couple of walking maps and a few shelter leaflets to keep us occupied. In town there was an assembly of Hotrod cars, much to Francois' delight, so we stopped for a look.

Next we did a lovely hike through the spectacular Grand Canyon and up to the stunning Pinnacle Lookout, from which there is a great view of the surrounding ranges, the plain and Lake Bellfield. Next stop, the MacKenzie Falls; the visitor centre promised us that the water flow is good all year round. François and Sophie decided to do the less strenuous walk to the lookout overlooking the falls. Jenny and Gaelle walked down to the base of the falls, where we refreshed our feet in the cool waters - lovely !

Then we headed to Ngamadjidj, to discover our first shelter with aboriginal rock art paintings. There are remnants of 16 white painted figures on this panel; interesting but not in the same league as Lascaux or Chauvet ! We continued along on a dirt track for another 8 kms to Gulgurn Manja shelter, where there are red adult and child handprints, emu tracks (-> -> ->) and bars ( I I I I ). Oh yes, we saw an echidnas on the shelter walk too, but it was a bit shy and didn't want to be photographed ! There are over a hundred shelters in the Grampians, but only 5 of them are open to visitors. We were left wondering what secrets the others held...

We barbequed sausages at a picnic site for dinner, with the setting sun illuminating Hollow Mountain in the backdrop, before moving the campervan to a quiet clearing to spend the night.

Hotrod car show at Halls Gap François on top of the world at the Pinnacle ! Gaelle at MacKenzie Falls
Painted figures at Ngamadjidj shelter Painted hands and bars at Gulgurn Manja shelter François enjoying the BBQ at Mount Zero picnic site

23 Feb: The Grampians

We decided this morning to stay another day in the Grampians to do another hike and visit some more shelters. After a long homework session we set out on the Hollow Mountain walk a couple of kilometres from our overnight spot. It was advertised as a medium to hard walk but we ended up climbing up rocks and over boulders with exposed ledges, holding on tightly to the girls hands ! It took us an hour to reach the summit, from where we had had lovely views over the surrounding region. We enjoyed exploring the caves and shelters near the summit, before descending under a blazing sun and 37 degrees Celsius. We've gained 20 degrees in the last 2 days since we left the coast...

After lunch we drove to the west of the Grampians to visit a couple more aboriginal rock art shelters. After almost 10 kms of dirt roads we arrived at Manja. We decided to rest an hour or so in the cool of the campervan before setting off for the 20 minute hike to the shelter. Manja was more impressive than the two previous shelters we'd seen; there are many hand stencils, emu tracks and human stick figures. The walk was slightly spoilt by the horseflies which were intent on sucking our blood, but we escaped with only one bite between us... Next stop Billimina shelter, where we were rewarded with many painted bars in horizontal rows as well as human stick figures and emu tracks after another short hike through the bush; we disturbed a wallaby along the way. We camped for the night a kilometre or so from the Billimina shelter, in the bush with only the noise of birds chirping to keep us company.

A cave up on Hollow Mountain Hand stencils at Manja shelter

24 Feb: The Grampians to Maldon

A second bad night's sleep for no apparent reason... We even went as far as recording the orientation of our bed to understand what factors may interfere with our usually good night's sleep... François' sleep was so disturbed that he resorted to watching the film Pearl Harbour between 2am and 4:30 am...!

This morning we drove from the western Grampians to Stawell via Rose Gap. We decided to treat the girls to a McDonald's meal whilst we consulted our mails. However we must have found the only McDonald's in South Australia without an Internet connection... After lunch we visited the 5th and last remaining shelter, the Bunjil Shelter, in the east Grampians. Here Bunjil, the local aboriginal equivalent of God, who created their land, their people, their animals, their plants, their religion and their law is painted in a rock shelter together with his two helpers (dingoes). The shelter is easily accessible but somewhat less inspiring than the other 4 aboriginal rock art shelters we've seen in the Grampians. The boulder rocks surrounding the shelter are beautiful however.

We then hit the road, following the Goldfields touring route from Stawell through Avoca and Maryborough (with it's impressive train station built in 1890) on to Maldon, where we spend the night in a National park's campsite. Today we lost 15 degrees compared to yesterday despite the skies being beautifully clear and the minimum forecast for the night is 8 degrees - brrhhh...

Dirt track to aboriginal rock art shelter Benjil and his 2 helpers Rock boulders around Benjil shelter

25 Feb: Bendigo

After a good night's sleep (is a north-south orientation better?) and breakfast, the girl's completed their diaries and did their homework. We are getting more and more worn down by Gaelle's attitude and tantrums during her daily work sessions and our meal times, which we are at present  powerless to cease. Even the threat of sending her home to boarding school is having little, to no effect... We knew it wouldn't always be easy spending 6 months with the kids, 24 hours, 7 days a week, but...

We drove from Maldon to Bendigo where we headed straight for the Central Deborah Gold Mine. We went on an informative 75 minute guided tour of the mine, visiting the galleries 61 metres below ground kitted out with hard hats and miner's lights. After the tour we were able to try our and at gold panning. Between us, we found 3 tiny pieces of gold ! We then went on a tram tour around the town on the "Talking Tram" with a stop off at the historic tram museum. When the tram as a means of public transport was ceased in 1972, a trust bought everything for a symbolic $1 to continue running the trams as a tourist attraction. The tram we went on dated back to the 30's.

Late afternoon we drove to Echuca, where we had a BBQ dinner at a picnic area with a playground, before moving on to a very remote camping area on the edge of the river Murrey for the night.

A trip on the Bendigo Talking Tram Bendigo tram museum


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